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A Note on Cosmetic Hype

There are several terms that get thrown around the cosmetic industry that need some definite clarification. Several companies have built their business on these terms and in the process confused and mislead the average consumer. The terms I am referring to are "fragrance-free", "alcohol free", and the big on "hypoallergenic". I often come across people who look specifically for these kinds of tags on products without realizing how vague they really are. For this reason I am going to try to clarify each term.

First let me say that the FDA has no legal guidelines for these claims. They are used in many situations as marketing tools, and are not guarantees.

What does "fragrance-free" mean?
If a product is said to be fragrance free it usually does not have any kind of heavy perfume smell to it. This doesn't mean that it doesn't have fragrance, just none that smells very intense. Companies put fragrances in their products to mask chemical ingredient smells and to make a product smell more enticing to potential consumers. Some companies use actual fragrance to scent their products and some will use botanicals. If a company uses an actual fragrance in their products then they have to list "fragrance" on their ingredient listings. But if they use other ingredients to mask the smell of the product then they do not have to list anything. "Fragrance-free" does not mean that the product has no smell.

What does "alcohol free" mean?
If something is said to be alcohol free it is usually free of any harsh or drying alcohol. You still might find some kinds of alcohol listed in the ingredients, like Cetyl Alcohol, which is a moisturizer. This term is often seen on products designed for a sensitive or dry skin as it makes the product appear less drying and harsh.

What does "hypoallergenic" mean?
If a product is said to be hypoallergenic then it supposedly will not cause an allergic reaction. This is especially important to sensitive skins that think that they can use a product if it has this claim. Not true. This term is used as a marketing tool. The term is not regulated or doled out by the FDA and is used freely on almost any kind of product regardless of its ingredients. All products on the market go through "allergy" tests and all claim to be "hypoallergenic". In the broadest sense it means that the majority of the people who use the product will have little or no reaction to it.

10 Beauty myths that you should know
Let me introduce this informative article by saying that these myths were chosen from the mass of email that I receive. Most of the questions that I get are the same. So I decided to take the most popular beauty myths that you ask me about and put them all together in a simple list. Enjoy...and remember.

Myth #1: pores open and close.
Your pores are not doors. Remember this and it will make your life more simple. A pore is an opening in the skin that allows sebum to flow to the surface in order to keep the skin supple and from cracking. They do not open, they do not close. If your pores are appearing larger it is most likely because dead skin cells have built up on the pore. This is why exfoliation is important. Exfoliation helps to buff away dead skin cells and keeps the pores looking smaller and cleaner. Now, I will tell you that picking and squeezing on your pores can stretch and scar them. So obviously this is a no-no. If you are prone to clogged pores it is necessary to use an acid based product to keep the pores clean on the surface. I prefer salicylic acids peels.

Also as an added myth breaker...those Band-Aid type strips that are supposed to clean your pores do not work. They clean off hair and skin, but cannot pull the wax and oil out of a pore. An acid simply helps to buff off the surface oil and skin build-up, which prevents the appearance of blackheads.

Myth #2: you must use products from one line only.
Yeah, I know who came up with this one as I have heard it many times from someone selling one line only. I promise you that your face will not explode, crack, quake, wither, or die if you combine products from different lines. I personal think my line is wonderful but it may not be for you. That is why it is important for you to find items that work for you and pick and choose from what is available to you. Just because you like MAC's powder for example doesn't mean that there entire skincare, makeup and hairline is for you. Don't put yourself in a box. There are too many wonderful products out there. And everyone's skin is different. Just because it works for someone else doesn't mean that it will work for you.

Myth #3: skin needs to breathe.
Okay, let's all practice this one together. Your lungs breath, your skin holds your bones and guts together. Any questions? I know...this is an old one and the idea behind it isn't so bad. Yes it is nice to not put makeup on your face everyday. Not because makeup suffocates the skin. If this was true then we would get quite sick wearing makeup...if it really did cut off our skins oxygen. But makeup because it is a pigmented product can irritate or clog the skin. That is why your cleansing regiment is so important for you. Use good products and never sleep in makeup. That's it.

Myth #4: oily skin should be dried out.
Oil production is very important for the maintenance of our skin. Most people are not nearly as oily as they think. (See #10.) If you are truly an oily skin it is very important to not dry out the skin but keep it balanced and clean. Hydration and oiliness are very separate. Just because your skin is oily doesn't mean that it needs no moisture. We put moisture on the skin to help it stay supple as it receives oil and water from the inside. If the skin is dehydrated we often begin producing more oil as our skin tries to compensate. This is the reason that many skins breakout. They have a dry flaky layer on the top surface and the oil that the skin produces gets trapped underneath and becomes infected. This is why it is so important to keep the outer layer of skin exfoliated and moisturized.
Also, most oily skin cleansers are way to harsh and drying for the skin. The skin should never feel tight or dry or burn after washing. Also anything that burns or "cools" the skin is damaging it. Use those products on sunburns, your legs, or clean your tub with them...but do not put them on the face.

Myth #5: A light tan looks good.
Do you know what I see when I look at a tan skin? Damage. Your skin doesn't brown because it is happy about the sun exposure it is getting. It browns the same way that a piece of toast browns.. because it is being cooked. If you are wearing a sunscreen of at least SPF 15 everyday you will still get a bit of color during the warm months of the year. This is inevitable. But if you are putting yourself out in the sun to darken your skin then you are asking to look like a Coach handbag in 10 years. For you young girls, those large freckles and spots you see on older women's skin...if you are tanning now then you already have them. They won't show up until your mid-20's to mid-30's but the damage has been done. Beautiful skin is about clarity and evenness and smoothness....NOT ABOUT COLOR AND DEPTH. Use tanning creams!

Myth #6: Blue eyes should wear blue eye shadow.
I will make this one short and sweet. If you put a ruby in a red velvet box, what happens to the ruby? It disappears or at the least becomes less noticeable. The same applies to eye shadow. Contrast and compliment your eye color. Don’t match it.

Myth # 7: green cuts red.
All right, I admit it...green does cut red. But so does yellow. And from a makeup perspective yellow is much more prevalent in the skin than green. What do you think looks more like healthy skin? Green toned skin or yellow toned skin? Yellow as a neutralizer is prettier, easier to work with and more real.

Myth #8: I can't wear red lipstick.
I hear this one a lot and my answer is the same for any skin color. Anyone can wear red lipstick if you know what red to look for. The Marilyn Monroe red is best on light skin tones with light eyes. If you have a medium complexion you will look best in brown reds. I like warm brown reds for olive tones and cool brown reds and burgundies for darker and red toned skins. I also adore sheer reds for less strong makeup looks.

Myth #9: Shine in the t-zone equates oily skin.
I admit that I get a little bit frustrated with all of the email I get about how oily people are. So let's cut to the chase. First of all the t-zone is the area across your nose and down your chin. Think of a lower case "t". The cheeks judge second oiliness or lack of it. If your cheeks develop a shine within a couple of hours after applying makeup then yes you are oily. Shine in the t-zone indicates a normal skin. Dry skins know that they are dry and oily skins know that they are oily. Normal skins tend to think that they are oilier than they are. Check the cheeks to be sure.

Myth #10: I have to wear products that are hypoallergenic.
Don't we all.
The FDA requires that all products sold as cosmetics go through some kind of allergy testing. These tests are conducted or overseen by the companies themselves and not regulated. Each company has its own term for selling its products as non-allergenic. Be aware however that all this means from a regulatory standpoint is that the products when tested did not produce allergic reactions in most subjects. So in a nutshell, all products are "hypoallergenic". Be aware that this is a marketing tool when used to promote a product and that it doesn't guarantee that you will not be sensitive to it.

 

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Page Last Updated: 22-Jun-2004
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